Our Customers Commonly Ask These Questions
PChrome creates a mirror like finish to just about any service. It can be a silver/chrome finish or you can use a wide variety of transparent tints to make any color a brilliant reflective surface.
It’s as easy as following step-by-step directions. But you do have to follow the instructions precisely to get the fully reflective, high shine you’re after. That applies to the surface preparation before PChroming, the mixing of each PChrome formulation, and the applying of it in a careful, even way.
The PChrome Artist kit is a simple step-by-step process that allows a person with limited experience to create a chrome-like surface.
We are here all week to answer your questions. You can contact us by phone or email to reach a technician with direct ds-on experience using PChrome.
The base coat takes a long time to cure: The 2K receiving coat cure time is sensitive to several factors. Temperature and coating thickness are the most significant variables. Cooler shop temperatures will exponentially affect cure time. A thick layer or base coat can also lead to longer cure times. Applying the base in a thin coat with a finely atomized spray mist is best.
Spots on the part are not taking the metal finish. There are a few things that can cause this problem. The most common is that the part needs to be sufficiently wetted. You may have noticed the water breaking when spraying SR solutions on the part. On larger parts, you may need to repeat steps 3 and 4 several times. The next factor is the age of the D solution. This chemical has a shelf life of six months. The last factor is surface contamination. This can be obvious in the form of visible nubs in the base coat or less evident in the form of fingerprints, latex residue, or overspray from other projects.
Rainbow or Crazing Effect when Top Coat is applied: The base coat was not sufficiently cured before metalizing. Allow more time, or use a heat cure.
Excessive Yellow When Top Coat is Applied: A small amount of yellowing is expected and should be quickly neutralized by adding a violet or black tint to the top coat. However, if you are experiencing a lot of yellows that will not neutralize, there are a few things to look for. First is an insufficient deposit of metal. The finish should be very bright before going to the top coat. A thinner metal deposit can cause a yellow finish. Second, this process should not be attempted if your shop’s humidity level is above 60%.
Metal is slow or will not plate: The reaction is heat sensitive so cold water can cause delayed metalizing. You should also look at the purity of your water. Even as much as 5ppm dissolved solids in the water can prevent the plating process from working. Finally, check the age of the R solution; it can begin to lose potency after 6 to 9 months.
We recommend having a spray booth or table, but yes, you can carry this out in your garage.
Our products contain some solvents such as toluene, xylene, and ammonia. Therefore, we recommend wearing a respirator while carrying out the process.
Our chrome finish typically does not yellow since an anti-yellowing compensating tint must be added to the topcoat to combat that antique look. Our products typically do not yellow as our silver is of high quality.
If done correctly, the results should be permanent given normal wear and tear.
The chemicals have about six months of shelf-life.
I already have a mini spray booth with wastewater collection and filters. Is there anything else I need to use your kit?
Our artist starter kits have all the materials you need to create your finish, minus the expensive spray machinery such as spray guns. They include handheld pump sprayers instead of spray guns. Our professional starter kits have spray guns for applications where they will be used more frequently.