PChrome creates a mirror like finish to just about any service. It can be a silver/chrome finish or you can use a wide variety of transparent tints to make any color a brilliant reflective surface.

Easy as following the step by step directions. But you do have to follow the instructions precisely to get the full reflective, high shine you’re after. That applies to the surface preparation before PChroming, the mixing of each PChrome formulation, and the applying of it in a careful, even way.

The PChrome Artist kit is a simple step by step process that allows a person with a limited experience to create a chrome like surface.

We are here all week to answer your questions. You can contact us by phone or email to reach a technician with direct hands on experience using PChrome.

Base coat is taking a long time to cure: The 2K receiving coat cure time is sensitive to several factors. Temperature and coating thickness are the biggest variables. Cooler shop temperatures will exponentially effect cure time. A thick layer or base coat can also lead to longer cure times. It is best to apply the base in a thin coat with a finely atomized spray mist.

Spots on the part are not taking the metal finish. There are a few things that can cause this problem. The most common is the part has not been sufficiently wetted. You may have noticed the water breaking as soon the SR solutions are sprayed on the part. On larger parts you may need to repeat steps 3 and 4 several times. The next factor is the age of the D solution. This chemical has a shelf life 6 months. The last factor is surface contamination. This can be obvious, in the form of visible nubs in the base coat, or less obvious in the form of fingerprints, latex residue or overspray from other projects.

Rainbow or Crazing Effect when Top Coat is applied: The base coat was not sufficiently cured before the metalizing process. Allow more time, or use a heat cure.

Excessive Yellow When Top Coat is applied: A small amount of yellowing is expected and should be easily neutralized with an addition of violet or black tint to the top coat. However if you are experiencing a lot of yellow that will not neutralize, there are a few things to look for. First is insufficient deposit of metal. The finish should be very bright before going to the top coat. Thinner metal deposit can cause a yellow finish. Second, this process should not be attempted if the level of humidity in your shop is above 60%.

Metal is slow or will not plate: The reaction is heat sensitive, so cold water can cause delayed metalizing. You should also look to the purity of your water. Even as much a 5ppm dissolved solids in the water can prevent the plating process from working. Finally check the age of the R solution as it can begin to lose potency after 6 to 9 months.

We do recommend that you have a spray booth or spray table, but yes, this is something you can carry out in your garage.

Our products do have some solvents such as toluene, xylene, and ammonia. Therefore, we do recommend that you wear a respirator while carrying out the process.

Our chrome finish typically does not yellow since an anti-yellowing compensating tint must be added to the topcoat to combat that antique look. Our products normally do not yellow as our silver is of high quality.

If done correctly, the results should be permanent given normal wear and tear.

The chemicals have about 6 months of shelf-life.

Our artist starter kits have all the materials you need to create your finish, minus the expensive spray machinery such as spray guns. They include handheld pump sprayers instead of spray guns. Our professional starter kits have the spray guns for applications where it will be used more frequently.